Today is 30 Jun 2008 and I am have a good time and relaxing in Lijiang old town Panba Guesthouse. Just for 100Y I enormous huge room, not worse than I had in Beijing Crown Plaza***** in Olympic village. Tomorrow I plan to take two days track on to Tiger Leaping George and then after one more day in Lijiang to continue towards Guiling through Kunming.
But about Lijiang later. One friend of mine asked to post some tips for China before I forget everything so I'll do it on the fly now. I am not going to discover new Lonely Planet but probably will write some tips which I personally didn't see or may be missed in the book. Especially the things that surprised me for good or for bad as well.
During my stay Beijing was completely covered by smog, in combination with low clouds it made the air practically visible by naked eye. I had a hard time to breath and really suffered when had to walk around the city. Sometimes, thanks to rain or wind, it was getting clear for a few hours or a day but the air pollution remain. The only places with fresh air are shopping malls and … subway. The subway is air conditioned so I really enjoyed using it for taking rest from walking and breathing fresh and cool air. And actually people are aware of problem and not just used to the it (see the picture), the China government trying to takes some steps to reduce amount of Beijing smog at least during the Olympics period. Probably they will have to shut down the factories around the city or restrict amount of private cars.
Beijing smog
Transportation:
The taxi is relatively cheap. The drivers not cheating you, they start a counter immediately and going shortest (ok, sometimes fastest) way to your destination. I never heard from somebody that was taken through all the city instead of 5 minutes of direct driving. The taxi costs 10Y for first two kilometers + 2Y/km so going through all the city from say Olympic village to Summer palace took me around 30Y only (which is around 15 NIS). The taxi from the airport took 70Y also because there are few toll gates or bridges in the way and taxi driver include the pass fee in the price.
Inside the city the best solution is to use subway. The subway is very modern, most of the lines there just recently open (or will be open soon) before the Olympics. Everything is in English inside, you don't have any problem of buying tickets of finding your directions The price is only 2Y and it usually even faster than a taxi.
Walking around is a bit dangerous, the drivers in China are OK, but they not really paying attention to the traffic regulation rules. When you crossing the street on your green light you easily could be … say almost hit by taxi or bike which not paying attention on the red light. Even worse, in looks like in China it is allowed to turn right on red, like in US. The only difference that in China none of drivers will pay so much attention on people crossing the street and just will drive through. Sometimes you wonder how do they succeed and nobody gets killed … but actually they DO and very often.
Prices:
Relatively to rest of the China Beijing is expensive. The locals tell that just to survive in Beijing you have to make at least 3000-4000Y a month (which is 440-580$). Not so expensive, you could still eat in the restaurant for 50-100Y per person which is twice cheaper that Israel has. But don't expect you will find super attractive prices in the shopping mall. On the Hai-Dan market the prices for electronics were pretty similar to US prices and you NEVER would not what you actually bought. The Silk Market in a separate story - it could be defined as a practical classes for the bargain skills. None of the goods has a price written on it or price is extremely overcharged. Every bargain starts exactly the same - you get a "especial good price" which around 50 times bigger than a real one and you trying to make as low as possible until both sides agree or you just walk away. And you will never know if you picked up a good price or not. Even if you managed to get a price you standing for, you still never know if you would able to get the same thing twice cheaper. If you not so experienced/getting tired/stressed of the bargain you could try one of different markets. The Silk Market s not the only pearl market in Beijing, for example the you could try Honqiao Pearl market near the Temple of Heaven subway station. It has pretty the same but bargain is MUCH less aggressive.
What else ? English speaking.
Again because of Olympics Beijing is somehow could be considered English friendly. Here is mine observation about Chinese English skills in general:
- Do not speak English.
Sometimes even don't know that the word "English" means. - Speak English "A little"
Usually could say a few words in English but understand nothing of that you say. - Speak English
Could speak and understand but sometimes have terrible accent of don't understand many words. But if you patient enough you usually could explain in different words that do you mean be be well understood. - Know English.
Speak English fluently, sometimes even better that I do.
Did I forget anything ? Ask, I will try to answer.
P.S. some fine selection from more than 200 pictures of Forbidden City already on my Zenfolio page !
